Sheltered by 11 kilometres of walls that protected it during the age of pirates, and with a wealth of museums, monuments and charming colonial architecture, Cartagena de Indias is one of the most beautiful and best-preserved cities in Latin America. Its majestic streets, stunning beaches, buzzing nightlife and international dining scene all combine to lure visitors to this “walled city”, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
By Jenny Aguirre
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Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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Sunrise On The Beach – Is there a better way to start the day in the Caribbean than to watch the sunrise over the waves? Of course not! Look for a place on the wall near the Baluarte de Santo Domingo fort, from which to admire how the first rays of light wash over the colourful colonial houses. The landscape is breathtaking and the atmosphere is calm, free from the crowds of tourists at this time of morning. Check ahead to see what time sunrise takes place that day, and make sure you arrive about a half an hour before to see the whole show. Then you can spend the first hour of the morning by the sea, having a coffee, practicing yoga or going for a walk or jog. [Photo: Wikimedia Commons]
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24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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7AM: Browse The Handicraft Market – Just 12 minutes walking from the Baluarte de Santo Domingo, you’ll find Plaza de las Bóvedas, the main handicraft market in the city. Located between the forts of Santa Clara and Santa Catalina, Las Bóvedas are considered the last great project of the Spaniards during the colonial era. The plaza features 47 arches and 23 vaults that were built for military use at the time, and then served as prison cells during Independence. Following a restoration in 1983, the building now houses shops brimming with handicrafts and antiques – the perfect place to find a souvenir of this magical city. [Photo: Joe Ross/Flickr]
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24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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8AM: Time For Breakfast – To prepare for the marathon day ahead, you’ll need an excellent breakfast. Take a taxi to the Plaza de Bolívar, where you’ll find the busy restaurant Montesacro next door to the Emerald Museum. Sit on the balcony and watch the city come alive as you enjoy a delicious chicken sandwich, a fruit salad or scrambled eggs with fresh fruit juice. Once you’ve eaten your fill, it’s time to embark on a tour of Cartagena de India’s most emblematic historical sites – don’t forget to take a bottle of water with you, wear comfortable shoes and apply sunscreen. [Photo: Montesacro via Facebook]
3/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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9AM: An Encounter With History – To walk through the historic centre is to relive the past, visiting centuries-old cloisters and churches, and seeing the vestiges of bloody battles waged in the fight to free the “Heroic City”. Take a walk through the streets, and let yourself be amazed by the colourful colonial houses more than 400 years old. As you leave the restaurant, you’ll see the Zenú Gold Museum, displaying gold jewellery and other artefacts of pre-Columbian cultures. Nearby is the Cathedral of St. Catherine of Alexandria, whose dome can be seen from all corners of the city centre. [Photo courtesy Procolombia]
4/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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(An Encounter With History) – Be sure to visit the San Pedro Claver Church, built in 1580 and containing the remains of the eponymous priest who stood up for the rights of African slaves. We also recommend stopping by the Casa Museo Rafael Núñez, the Torre del Reloj clock tower and the Church of Santo Domingo in the square of the same name. TIP: Don’t leave the square without taking a selfie with the famous sculpture of ‘fat’ Gertrudis by Colombian master Fernando Botero. [Photo courtesy Corpoturismo]
5/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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12PM: Try Colombian Fashion On For Size – As you wander the city, you’ll find a great selection of jewellery (mainly emeralds), accessories and leather goods. Guayaberas, a style of breezy men’s shirt typical of the Caribbean, are also popular; we recommend visiting Ego, run by tailor Edgar Gómez Estévez whose guayaberas have been worn by the likes of Gabriel García Márquez and Barack Obama. Ladies, on the other hand, might try the boutique of Gabi Arenas, recognised as one of the country’s best leather goods designers, thanks to the upbeat Caribbean vibe of her hand-painted designs. [Photo: Tienda Gabi Arenas, via Facebook]
6/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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1PM: Lunch With Caribbean Flair – Cartagena de India’s dining scene is nothing short of an exploration, a discovery of how the fusion of Spanish, African and indigenous cultures gave rise to a cuisine rich in exotic flavours. Local specialties include the traditional arepa de huevo (egg arepa), arroz con coco (coconut rice), carimañolas (similar to empanadas, but made with yuca), butifarra (pork sausage) and mote de queso (yam and cheese soup), among others. If you want to truly live the culture of Cartagena through its food, we recommend lunch at Restaurante Candé, serving an authentic Caribbean menu rife with seafood and local fruits. [Photo courtesy Grupo Gela]
7/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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2PM: A Mighty Military Monument – Known as the ‘Guardian of Cartagena’ and one of the seven wonders of Colombia, the Castillo de San Felipe is the largest military fortress in South America. It was built by the Spaniards in 1536 and expanded in 1657, when the city was constantly being set upon by English and French invaders determined to take the city widely considered the jewel of the Spanish crown in the New World. In addition to the main square, kitchen and cistern, this colossal construction has artillery emplacements, underground galleries and gunpowder storage. Its history and its majesty will leave you speechless! [Photo courtesy Corpoturismo]
8/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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4:30PM: A Sweet Afternoon Treat – You can’t simply leave the city without trying the typical sweets of Cartagena de Indias! Order an Uber to return to the historic centre and head to Portal de los Dulces, where you can sample the best treats the Colombian Caribbean has to offer, made with ingredients such as coconut, sesame, panela and guava. Try the popular cocadas (coconut sweets), tamarind candies, panelitas de leche (milk sweets) and marshmallows. Take some back home to give as gifts – if you can resist the urge to eat them first! [Photo courtesy Corpoturismo]
9/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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5PM: Explore Colombian History – Today, the Historical Museum of Cartagena occupies the palace that was once the most cruel face of the Inquisition, established in 1610 to prosecute crimes against the Christian faith in the city. The Palace of the Inquisition is an elegant baroque building with wooden balconies – a true example of the architecture of the 18th century – but for all its exterior splendour, the interior has a dark history. Originally housing dungeons and torture chambers, the palace is now home to art exhibitions and cultural events, as well as the Historical Archive of Cartagena, which contains historical documents important to the city. TIP: Non-Spanish-speaking travellers keen on a visit to the museum would do well to join a tour in their preferred language, as the displays are mostly in Spanish. [Photo: J. Stephen Conn/Flickr]
10/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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6:30PM: Relax With A Coffee – It’s been an exhausting day, we know, so how about a rest? Abaco Books and Coffee is a good place to have a seat, sip a real Colombian coffee or glass of wine, and crack open a book. This bookstore/café has an excellent collection of tomes in Spanish and English, and as a prime meeting point for intellectuals in the city, it’s become the preferred place for talks and gatherings, as well as an alternate venue for famous festivals and cultural events such as the Hay Festival, the Cartagena International Music Festival and the Cartagena Film Festival. [Photo courtesy Ábaco Libros y Café]
11/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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7:30PM: Dinner Al Fresco – Now, we return to where our tour began: the Baluarte de Santo Domingo. Right nearby you’ll find one of the city’s busiest and most popular eateries, restaurant-bar Café del Mar. Offering some of the best views of Cartagena de Indias – especially at sunset – along with a cosy atmosphere and delicious cocktails, this is also the place to enjoy a delicious dinner of seafood accompanied by an ocean breeze, and followed by drinks and electronic music. No doubt the perfect combination to start your engines and prepare for the hectic nightlife in the “Heroic City”. [Photo: Café del Mar, via Facebook]
12/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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9PM: Go On A Carriage Ride – Is there a more romantic way to see the city at night than by horse-drawn carriage? Drink in the fairy-tale atmosphere of the historic centre, the Getsemani neighbourhood, Bocagrande and the Bay, while the coachman takes you on a trip through time as he recounts the legends of the city. If you’ve not yet fallen in love with Cartagena de Indias, surely this will do the trick. The tour is offered from 5-11pm, and there are prices for all budgets. We highly recommend it – especially if you’re travelling à deux! [Photo courtesy Procolombia]
13/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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10PM: Salsa The Night Away – We hope you rested up a bit on the carriage ride, because we’re going to dance ’til dawn! Head to the world-famous Café Havana, home to salsa, live orchestras and Cuban cigars. Order some mojitos to get in the spirit, and let yourself be taken over by the energetic atmosphere of the place, whose decor conjures memories of Cuban musical legends like Celia Cruz, Benny Moré and Compay Segundo. The tremendous Latin rumba music here has taken hold of such personalities as Hillary and Bill Clinton, so get ready for a true marathon of salsa! [Photo: Humberto Huertas]
14/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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Late: Sleep Like Royalty – After this exciting but wearying day, you deserve a night of rest and relaxation. Feel like a duke or duchess (or any member of the Spanish crown) in a boutique hotel in the historic centre. We recommend the Hotel Casa San Agustín, an upscale hotel composed of three colonial houses carefully reconstructed to keep the heritage and rich 17th-century architecture intact. Its rooms and suites are decorated to reflect the essence of Cartagena, and it boasts a spa as well as a restaurant with a traditional Caribbean menu. [Photo courtesy Hotel Casa San Agustín]
15/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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Listen Before You Go – Late Colombian singer Joe Arroyo’s song “La Rebelión” is a reflection of the rhythm and feeling of the people of Cartagena. Not long after its release in 1986, the song became an anthem of Afro-Colombianness, as well as a giant success that catapulted the career of ‘El Joe’ and earned him recognition as one of the best salsa singers in the world. The lyrics, with their deep social context, speak about slavery and the mistreatment to which the Africans were subjected upon arrival in the Indies, as well as their struggle for freedom.
16/18
Travel
24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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Read Before You Go – Cartagena de Indias is home to an extensive canon of literature either created in or based on the city, from cookbooks to tomes on architecture and history, as well as works of fiction – after all, it served as the inspiration for Gabriel García Márquez’s famous novels Love in the Time of Cholera and Of Love and Other Demons. For a more modern look at the city, we suggest Cartagena de Indias: territorio literario by Carlos Vásquez-Zawadzki (2016), in which scores of renowned Latin American authors offer perspectives on magical Cartagena through diverse literary genres such as essays, articles, stories and poems. [Photo courtesy Corpoturismo]
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24 Hours In… Cartagena de Indias.
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Watch Before You Go – It’s no secret that Nobel Prize-winning author Gabriel García Márquez was inspired by romantic Cartagena when writing Love in the Time of Cholera. In 2007, director Mike Newell brought the love story between Florentino and Fermina to the big screen, calling upon such acting talent as Javier Bardem, Benjamin Bratt, Giovanna Mezzogiorno and Liev Schreiber. The film was shot in Cartagena, transforming the city with cranes, lights and sets that gave life to the colonial streets and market squares that represented Cartagena at the end of the 19th century.
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