Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban
OpenerFrom the outside, Durban often looks like a laid-back seaside holiday town, but the locals know it’s a vibrant and thriving playground that moves at its own pace. A paradise full of potential, with many diverse natural and cultural treasures, Durban provides a truly unique experience to anyone willing to venture off the beaten path. Local writer Bob Perfect shows us around. [Opener & teaser photo courtesy South African Tourism]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
Parc8am: Breakfast At Parc – As an arts and culture journalist, late nights are part of the job, so places that serve a solid all-day breakfast are top priority. Located in the Glenwood neighbourhood, Parc has two options I’d recommend, depending on your budget: Mushrooms on Toast, which is mushrooms fried with garlic and chilli on potato and rosemary bread, topped with a poached egg; or the Not-So-Benedict, a gloriously rich Eggs Benedict dish that many Durbanites rate as the best in the city. [Photo: Bob Perfect]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
art9.30am: A Morning Art Break – Now that you’ve fed your body, it’s time to feed your soul with some local art. The KZNSA Art Gallery is about 1.5km from Parc, and should be your next stop; you’ll notice it from the giant, brightly painted wall outside that changes every few months. The gallery features prominent up-and-coming artists from around South Africa alongside big names with new, groundbreaking exhibitions each month, plus there are two stores where you can purchase art, as well as a coffee shop should you feel like a pick-me-up. [Photo: Liza du Plessis]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
Glenwood10.30am: A Walk In The Park – As the name of the suburb suggests, Glenwood is full of foliage. I like to walk around Bulwer Park for some fresh air, along with the skateboarders, joggers, dog-walkers and others who don’t have 9-to-5s. From there, I usually stroll down Helen Joseph Road, which is equal parts quaint, hip and commercial, offering a variety of restaurants, bars and coffee shops, in addition to a second-hand charity store and South Store, a niche record shop at the bottom of the road. [Photo: Bob Perfect]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
chow11.30am: Chow Down – You can’t come to Durban and not have a bunny chow – it’s the one dish that unites every Durbanite. From students to businessmen, surfers to soccer players, people from all walks of life can be found at the local curry spot, indulging in this simple delicacy of curry served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread. Countless curry diners are littered around Durban – and many serve a tasty curry – but Cane Cutters recently won the Bunny Barometer, which is usually a good indicator of a top-quality bunny. Warning: Durban curry only comes in “hot”, even if it says mild.
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
art deco12.30pm: Take An Art Deco Walking Tour – After an early lunch, it’s time to walk it off in town. Hop on a bus or taxi into Durban’s vibrant city centre, and explore the countless stores and roadside stalls whilst taking in the historical landmarks and unique collage of architectural variety. Durban architecture features colonial styles from across the last 200 years of history, but is best known for its stunning collection of Art Deco buildings. You can take yourself on a self-guided Art Deco tour using these maps. [Photo: Sandra Cohen-Rose/Flickr]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
swing2pm: Swing Low – Now, I haven’t done The Swing at Moses Mabhida Stadium yet, because sometimes you don’t always make use of what’s on offer in your hometown – sometimes you’re terrified about stepping off a ledge and free-falling until the rope around your waist tenses up and sends you swinging through the air. However, if that sounds like your idea of a good time, then by all means, after you. I’ll take the Sky Car instead, and enjoy the view from the top. [Photo: Moses Mabhida Stadium]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
outdoors3pm: Enjoy The Great Outdoors – If you’re a nature lover, Durban has a plethora of nature reserves, forests and hikes both within the greater city area and surrounds. The Japanese Gardens in Durban North and Botanical Gardens in Morningside are nearby, and Paradise Valley and Kranskloof are on the outskirts, but if you can schedule it right (it’s only open on weekends), the Beachwood Mangroves offer a unique selection of fauna and flora that you can only find there. [Photo: Chrys Omori/Flickr]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
s437pm: Waffles And Beer – S43 has become a hip hotspot for anyone who enjoys a good meal and craft beer on tap, and they’ve been supporting the local music scene with regular gigs across genres, as well as hosting stand-up comedy on a frequent basis. They brew their own beers on the premises, and you can’t go wrong with the chicken, avo and bacon waffles.
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
chairman9pm: The Chairman – A swanky jazz spot set in a rundown building with outlandish decor, The Chairman is one of the most unique venues I’ve seen in South Africa, with neo-colonial style juxtaposed with redressed ruins. What’s more, The Chairman regularly hosts some of the most sensational jazz musicians in the country and is well worth the R150 entry fee – especially since it includes a bar tab of the same value. They offer a professionally made mix of cocktails and a wide selection of spirits for those with a refined palate. Writing doesn’t pay that well, so I usually stick to a couple of tequilas and beers. [Photo: The Chairman]
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
ReadRead Before You Go – Nick Mulgrew is a young, talented and ambitious writer originally from Durban who has been instrumental in getting many local writers published in Prufrock and uHlanga , but is an award-winning author himself. Grab a copy of his first novel, The First Law of Sadness, or Stations, his collection of short stories that explore youth in South Africa.
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Special South Africa
24 Hours In… Durban.
BobBob Perfect is the editor of Durban is Yours and a radio presenter on Durban Youth Radio’s The Real Drive, as well as a contributor to Bubblegum Club, and has bylines on Noisey, Afropunk and Hypetrak.
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