Food
Women Behind The Bar
We talk to five leading female bartenders about their experiences in mixology, the future of the industry, and their favourite cocktail recipes to try
Mixology may be a predominately male-led space, but these five extraordinary women are determined to shake things up. While their backgrounds and work experiences are diverse, they all share a reverence for other women paving the way, as well as a deep connection to their communities.
Paola Mariotti
General Manager of Cafe Arixi in Mexico City
On what sets Mexico City’s bar scene apart…
I’ve been fortunate to work in dynamic cities like London, Manchester and Mexico City at pivotal moments when their bar scenes were emerging. Mexico City’s link to the culture and cuisine gives all its cocktail bars a sense of ‘terroir’. With the advent of social media and recipe sharing, trends tend to homogenise global markets, but Mexico City has managed to blend innovation while maintaining its cultural identity.
On being a woman behind the bar…
Although the industry has been male-dominated for years, I honestly feel we have made progress towards inclusion over the last decade. I’m proud to say that we have many industry icons we look up to – for example, Our Whiskey founders Becky Paskin and Anna Sebastian, whose pioneering work celebrates women in the industry. I feel more represented than ever.
On the flip side, there is still work to do regarding family-friendly policies, childcare and general work-life balance. The industry remains very labour-intensive, and support for individuals is still lacking.
On the future of the profession…
Tackling these issues is the challenge that will define the career viability of our industry. Businesses that manage to actively support their staff will become the market leaders, especially in a world where skilled labour in guest-facing industries is becoming scarce.
On her current favourite cocktail…
I really enjoy adapting classic cocktails to the cities where I work. I’m a Negroni lover and am obsessed with the twist I created for Cafe Arixi. It takes inspiration from a local dish, Chile en Nogada. The recipe incorporates an infusion of chiles, pomegranate and goat cheese, which adds a layer of silky complexity and a vegetal finish – a perfect pairing with local cuisine.
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Daria Murashova
Behind the bar at Rome’s iconic Jerry Thomas Speakeasy
On Rome as a cocktail destination…
The city’s variety of options in food and beverage in general is a major plus, of course, but the real difference is the strong community that we’ve created here. We recommend each other’s places and link our guests to the local network. Our international guests inspire us in return. That friendship and connection, in addition to our visitors’ perception of this legendary city, makes Rome unique.
On being a woman in the industry…
I haven’t had negative experiences in this regard. I’m aware that we come from an era – particularly in Italy – where the bar was reserved for men, while waitressing was primarily a woman’s task. These are socially ingrained perceptions from previous decades based solely on traditions. In recent times, our clientele is increasingly focused on service. They’re more discerning and far less concerned with the gender of the individual providing it.
I see this trending forward for years to come. Significant contributions and revolutions within our industry are forging progress. Take Julie Reiner, Audrey Saunders and Anistatia Miller. These women are breaking barriers not only behind the bar, but also in multimedia and education.
On her current favourite cocktail…
I’m a huge fan of classic cocktails, can’t lie. But during my day off, there’s one drink I can’t avoid, the Martini Cocktail: take two parts Beefeater gin, one part Noilly Prat French Vermouth, three dashes of orange bitters and an olive for garnish.
If I’m craving something savoury, I usually go for a Polugar Wheat Dirty Martini. Lastly, I can’t say no to a Fernandito – Fernet and Coca-Cola – an Argentinian standby.
On her latest creations…
I’m not typically into agave spirits, but I like anything that plays on fennel, dill or absinthe. I do a Tequila Old Fashioned using both silver and anejo, with dill syrup as the sweetener and a touch of Akvavit for strength. Might seem a little bit boozy, but I guarantee it’s very refreshing and pleasant.
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Bianca Declet
Bartender at local institution El Batey in San Juan, Puerto Rico
On her unconventional career path…
I never imagined my background would lead me to excel in bartending. I studied language, art history and fashion. For years, I gave up nightlife to explore every corner of my island, from waterfall chasing to kayaking and spelunking.
In my first job, I didn’t think of myself as a ‘people person,’ but I couldn’t have been more wrong. Sharing my passions for culture, life and travel with guests – and this was all before social media – while also learning from them, challenges me every day to look up new recipes to share in the dynamic community within our industry.
On being a woman behind the bar…
In a historically male-led industry, it truly is amazing to see such a grandiose female presence. Whoever said that women don’t belong behind a bar needs to check themselves. Although men are, in general, physically stronger (I guess you could say), women have other traits and qualities that make us stand out in this industry. We’re nurturing and make excellent hosts. We multitask like there’s no tomorrow and we, too, can lift all those cases of beer… and do it gracefully!
I recently learned that currently 60% of US bartenders are women, and that’s pretty impressive. What I love most is that we have such a solid community. If you reach out to someone, they’re always willing to answer and help each other grow.
On San Juan’s singular nightlife…
A night out in Old San Juan comes with a little bit of history. Most of the buildings here are between 200 and 500 years old. Bar-hopping on narrow cobblestone streets from one concept bar to the next is definitely a vibe. Take El Batey, for example, a bar that’s been around for six decades. As soon as you walk in, you know that if the walls could speak, they’d be spilling so many secrets.
On her current favourite tipple…
It’s hard to have a favourite anything, if I’m honest. That’s the beauty of the range of options we have nowadays. I believe mood and place inspire our cocktail choices. Sometimes I just want to sip on a mezcal, neat. But I’m a sucker for any variation on a margarita, even better if it’s spicy.
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Georgia Georgakopoulou
Former director of Athens’ iconic The Clumsies; current bar consultant at Etiquette / Codes of Bartending
On Athens as a cocktail destination…
Athens’ bar scene stands out for its blend of history, innovation and hospitality. It combines world-class cocktails with local flavours, a strong neighbourhood vibe, and a passionate, tight-knit community. Rooted in tradition yet constantly evolving, it’s a city that embraces both authenticity and creativity, making it a top cocktail destination.
On the future of the industry…
It’s becoming more inclusive, with more women in leadership, ownership and consulting roles. There’s growing respect and support, but biases remain. We often work harder to prove our expertise. In Greece, we still need more women behind the bar. Safety and workplace culture need improvement, too, but women are shaping the future of bartending more than ever.
On her signature drink…
I’ve had a lot of favourite signature recipes throughout the years. A favourite of our clients during the summer of 2024 was the El Camino De Delos, a twist on a margarita: combine Reposado Tequila, mango water, smoked pineapple, fennel and dill. Use a three-piece shaker, and fine-strain it into a frozen coupette glass.
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Raiza Carrera
Founder of Agite Club pop-up series; currently consulting for the opening of The Circle, Barcelona
On being a woman in a male-led industry…
It has been difficult, and it still is, but compared to when I first started, we have many more important female figures today. I really admire the work that Monica Berg does, and movements like the Ada Coleman Project and She Side. Thanks to the great efforts of these incredible professionals – people who aim to make this industry a safe space for women as well as the LGBTQ+ community – we have more visibility than ever. There’s still much to do, but I feel that our voices are being heard, and that’s a very positive thing.
On her city’s unique bar scene…
Definitely the people! Plus, in Spain, you can get a great variety of ingredients from different parts of the world, and that’s incredible.
On her current favourite recipe…
Chicha Tu Madre – a signature of Agite Club – is definitely a banger. It’s made with chicha (Peruvian purple corn juice), lacto-fermented syrup, Humo licor (smoked chipotle liquor), lime juice and gin, topped up with Thomas Henry soda. Just delicious.
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