In Munich, September is all about Oktoberfest, the majority of which actually takes place in the preceding month. If you can imagine no greater torture than drinking overpriced litre-mugs of beer while swaying to the sounds of an oompah band in a hot tent with thousands of sweaty strangers, this is the guide for you. Here’s how to avoid the Oktoberfest (or Wiesn, as it’s known locally) in Munich for 24 hours – like a local. If you’d prefer to see all the major sights – hordes of Oktoberfest revellers be damned – check out our other guide to the city here.
Sunrise: Stroll In Westpark – Westpark was originally landscaped to host the 1983 International Garden Exhibition. Today, it’s a firm favourite with locals, but barely a blip on the tourist radar. Due to its location surrounded by residential areas with nary a sight to be seen, at dawn you’re more likely to meet joggers and residents walking their dogs than tourists. Climb one of the park’s many hills to get a nice, peaceful view of the sunrise. [Photo: Nagy / Presseamt München]
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10am, Grab A Lakeside Bite – After an extended stroll around the park, taking in the numerous international contributions that remain from its days as an exhibition garden, stop at Gans am Wasser for a coffee or a small breakfast. The lakeside café is located at the other end of the park, closer to the city. Its menu is limited, but the location, charming DIY aesthetic, friendly service and chance to rub shoulders with locals make it more than worthwhile. [Photo via Facebook]
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11am,Catch A Wave – You’ll want to steer clear of Munich’s famous Eisbach standing wave, which will be thronged with onlookers in Lederhosen by now. Instead, grab one of the many rental bikes available across the city and head south, where the smaller, less famed “Floßlände” wave also attracts urban surfers. If you’re lucky, patrons of the nearby campsite will still be nursing their hangovers at this hour, although you may find them having drinks by the river later in the day.
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12am, Avoid The ‘Zoo’, Go to The Zoo – Across the river lies one of Munich’s many hidden gems, Hellabrunn Zoo. If you’re worried that a facility that is home to animals from all corners of the earth won’t exactly give you a local flavour, think again. As the first ‘geo-zoo’ worldwide, Munich is famed for pioneering an educational approach mainly aimed at animal welfare and conservation. The inhabitants live in species-appropriate habitats with other animals from the same region. If you’re interested in local flora and fauna, pay a visit to the Bavarian village complete with a farm and typical animals. [Photo by Marc Müller]
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2pm, Beer Garden Vibes – Heading downriver towards the city, you’ll come across many a beer garden and kiosk serving refreshments, but the most popular by far is the one named after this section of the river Isar, Zum Flaucher. Stop for a leisurely lunch surrounded by families, day-trippers, sun-worshippers and other locals. You could also enjoy a “Maß” – a litre of beer costing roughly two-thirds of the price charged at the Oktoberfest. However, if beer isn’t your beverage of choice, it’s a lot easier here to choose a different tipple than it is at the ’fest. [Photo courtesy Zum Flaucher]
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3pm, Cinematic Munich – Staying close to the river and far away from the beerfest hordes, step into film history with the Bavaria Filmstadt visitor experience. Munich isn’t necessarily known as a huge international film-making hub, so you may be surprised to learn how many unlikely blockbusters were filmed there. From Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory to Cabaret, from The Neverending Story to Das Boot (both the 1981 film and the new series), there’s plenty of silver screen history to be explored. [Photo courtesy Bavaria Filmstadt]
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5pm, Historic Haidhausen – Sadly, the inner-city boutiques and Munich’s main pedestrianised shopping zones are off-limits if you want to avoid the seasonal shenanigans. Instead, hop on a tram that will take you straight to Haidhausen. The historic neighbourhood is actually older than Munich itself, but was incorporated in 1854. Not only will you discover a wealth of historic architecture in this bustling area filled with restaurants and cafés, it’s also a great spot for a little bit of retail therapy.
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7pm, Hilltop Sundowners – Haidhausen and neighbouring districts are perfectly positioned to offer the perfect sundowner spots. This side of the river lies at a significant elevation above the city centre and offers several vantage points from which you can watch the sun setting over the city below. Popular locations include the so-called “Angel of Peace” monument, the “Maximilianeum”, which houses the Bavarian parliament, and the “Nockherberg” observation deck. The one thing they all have in common is that you have to BYO refreshments, but the latter is located right next to a popular beer garden, where you can grab a quick snack and drink. [Photo: Marco Verch/Flickr]
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8pm, Grab A Brew – Just because you’re avoiding the beerfest doesn’t mean you have to avoid all Munich beer culture. The next district to the south is home to one of Munich’s most popular small breweries, Giesinger Bräu. Craft brewers have only recently begun to challenge the near-monopoly of the city’s six traditional breweries, and this one is even hoping to one day run its own beer tent at the big ’fest. For now, you can enjoy fresh brews and home-cooked food in the on-site brewpub.
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10pm, An Early Nightcap – Again, the city centre and its most popular bars, restaurants and clubs are not an option unless you want to dance the night away in the company of thousands of beerfest revellers. Thankfully, Giesing has a host of local bars to offer, ranging from earthy watering holes to hip cocktail joints. We like Altgiesing, a rejuvenated former dive bar that offers great drinks, eclectic music and a young, hip crowd. Get there early, and you’re unlikely to be bothered by too much of the so-called “Après Wiesn” debauchery. [Photo via Facebook]
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Read Before You Go – As you may expect from the knowledgeable travel snobs at the world’s pickiest publishing house, The Monocle Travel Guide to Munich is filled with artfully curated locations off the beaten track – which is, of course, exactly where you want to be. If you have more than 24 hours to kill in Munich, you’ll find tips to keep you out of harm’s way for at least a week. [Photo via monocle.com]
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Watch Before You Go – The hardest thing to grasp about Munich is its laid-back, life-is-good, take-it-easy attitude. You can get a sense of what that feels like in two films from different eras: Zur Sache, Schätzchen and Nach Fünf im Urwald. Each involves a small set of characters drifting around the city on a summer’s day and stumbling from one more or less unspectacular adventure to the next. The former is set in 1968 and barely even nods at the political unrest of the times – its protagonists are simply too preoccupied with shooting the breeze and having a good time. The latter was released in 1995 and features a pre-Lola Franka Potente in her first film role, as a girl from the Bavarian countryside who wants to make it big in the city, but gets sidetracked and heads home after an educational night on the town.
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Listen Before You Go – Oktoberfest oompah aside, the Sound of Munich is not particularly well defined. From what is known as “Munich Disco”, which brought forth the likes of Donna Summer, Boney M. and Giorgio Moroder, to German-language local heroes like Münchener Freiheit, who sing about the good life in the beautiful city, it’s a broad range. Why not find out what Munich’s young bands are up to – check out the Sound of Munich Now, a regular festival that also releases compilations.
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