Onomichi, well beyond the Golden Route and just far enough off the beaten Tokyo-Hiroshima path to usually get the cold-shoulder treatment, is barely a blip on the radar of most international visitors to Japan. Those who do go are likely to see it as little more than a gateway to the Shimanami Kaido bike route. Stay a little longer, however, and you’ll discover that the town offers a microcosm of all things Japan, with temples and shrines, castles and tea houses, cat cafés and specialty ramen, art and culture, industrial heritage and creative gentrification, all in an easily walkable package.
The Journey – Even if you aren’t travelling on a Japan Rail Pass, the train is probably the best mode of transport. An easy day trip from both Hiroshima and Okayama, Onomichi is also within reach of Tokyo, thanks to the nearby Shinkansen stations frequented by numerous high-speed trains per hour. If time is not an issue, consider taking as much as possible of the scenic route on the local train lines hugging the coast between Hiroshima and Fukuyama.
The Ride – Although you shouldn’t come to Onomichi ONLY to cycle the Shimanami Kaido, you also shouldn’t visit without renting a bike and doing at least part of it. The 70-kilometre route links the main Japanese island of Honshu to the relatively smaller island of Shikoku, crossing six bridges and traversing six little islands across the Seto Inland Sea on the way. The infrastructure is phenomenal, the scenery spectacular and each island offers some unique highlight. It’s possible to do the whole thing in a day, or do as much as you can and return by ferry or bus whenever you run out of steam, or even make a week of it, staying in guest houses or campsites along the way. [Photo © JNTO]
The Attitude – Once an important port, Onomichi now has all the signs of an industrial town in decline. Like many municipalities in Japan, the town runs an akiya bank, a local database listing abandoned buildings for sale at extremely low prices, or even for free. This scheme has contributed to the town’s popularity with young creatives, who have flocked there to take on the challenge of renovating a house with character and history, while enjoying the low cost of living.
The Hangout – On the steep hill that must be climbed for access to most of the town’s sights, a volunteer group have taken it upon themselves to renovate a heritage home (found in the akiya bank) and turned it into a truly unique hostel. At guest house Miharashi-tei, guests can experience a Japanese inn in the traditional Saen (tea culture) style – on a budget. Even if you prefer to bed down in a Western-style hotel, you can still drop in for tea, admire the architecture and enjoy the view.
The Digs – As for accommodation, Onomichi U2 is hands-down the most stylish hotel in town. The converted waterfront warehouse serves as a bike hotel, offering to hold your shipped bike, or rent you a Giant bike. There’s a workshop fully equipped with tools, the option to check in from your saddle, and the possibility of bringing your own bike to your room. For those planning on cycling the Shimanami Kaido, it’s a no-brainer. For those who aren’t, it’s still a conveniently located design hotel with a local flavour and hip factor. [Photo: Onomichi U2]
The Walk – In Onomichi, the only way is up. The Temple Walk connects the town’s many places of worship, including several registered Heritage sites. Even if you’ve already seen enough temples to last you a lifetime, the meandering walk through narrow lanes, down little alleys and up steep steps is worth it. If not for the exercise and the views, do it for the opportunity to get up close to old buildings and gardens, many of them in disrepair, some lovingly tended to, others freshly renovated by new arrivals. [Photo © JNTO]
The Moment – Despite its industrial appearance, Onomichi has had quite the cultural impact. Renowned authors and directors were born, lived and worked here, and it has been featured in dozens of anime series, video games and films. Most famously, it was one of the locations for Tokyo Story by Yasujirō Ozu, widely considered one of the best films ever made or even THE best Japanese film of all time. The Onomichi Motion Picture Museum displays memorabilia and regularly shows films with a local connection.
The People – The town’s famous writers and their works are commemorated along the Path of Literature, which, you may soon realise, is not entirely unlike the Temple Walk. It slowly winds up the same hill, but instead of stopping to pray, those familiar with the language can read passages from great works of Japanese literature inscribed on stones alongside the path. Highlights include the childhood home of poet Fumiko Hayashi and a haiku about Onomichi by the ‘inventor’ of the haiku. [Photo © JNTO]
The View – Still not convinced that climbing Mount Senkoji is worth it? Luckily, there’s an alternative for those that can’t – or don’t want to – do it on foot. A ropeway takes visitors to an altitude of 115 metres in minutes, allowing them to reach the top, take in the town’s most famous temple, a lovely park and panoramic views, without breaking a sweat. [Photo © JNTO]
The Place – A short stroll from the ropeway station, the Onomichi City Museum of Art is a highlight for several reasons. You may unknowingly already be familiar with the museum’s entrance, thanks to a series of viral photos and videos showing a couple of cats seeking entry – and being turned away by friendly museum guards. Clearly, the cats know that, for a regional art museum, it punches way above its weight. Housed in a building designed by Pritzker Prize-winner Tadao Ando, it holds world-class exhibitions of Japanese and international art.
The Secret – The museum isn’t the only place to encounter curious felines. Cat Alley, the perfect refreshment stop as you descend from Mount Senkoji, is a hotspot for the town’s many cats, who are not so much ‘stray’ as ‘community fostered’. The alley has several small cafés in which to fraternise with the purring creatures, as well as a Maneki-neko museum dedicated to the famous welcoming or ‘lucky’ cats. Finally, if you’re wondering what the cats think about the town, see it through their eyes on the local ‘Cat Street View’.
The Shop – The shōtengai (covered shopping arcade) that lies to the east of the train station may not look like much, but once you venture in, you’ll be delighted to discover real gems, such as Onomichi Creators Market. Though billed as a pop-up shop, it seems to be here to stay, selling the work of local artisans and designers. Whether you’re looking for gifts or souvenirs, inspiration or a dose of kawaii cuteness, you’ll find it here. [Photo via Onomichi Creators Market on Facebook]
The Look – With its vintage vibes and young creatives, it comes as no surprise that Onomichi is a prime second-hand shopping destination. On even a short stroll along the arcade, you can pick up antique kimonos for a song, browse racks of new and pre-loved clothes in small boutiques – or witness how jeans are elevated to art objects at the Onomichi Denim Project. The founders pay tribute to the town’s textile production heritage and modern-day Japan’s obsession with premium denim. Each pair of jeans sold in the gallery-shop was once raw denim, broken in by a local volunteer over the course of a year.
The Lunch – The Onomichi twist on ramen, with added fish sauce and lard, is a must-try for noodle fans. The consensus on the best place to try this specialty seems uncontested – as evidenced by long lines of locals and visitors alike. Shukaen (or Syukaen) is a small, unassuming ramen shop just off the main shopping street, where this dish is served piping hot. [Photo © JNTO]
The Dinner – If blobs of lard (or meat in general) aren’t your thing, head to Yamaneko, a lively restaurant with a menu as eclectic as its décor. Decidedly artsy in style, it always offers something to distract the eyes, and sometimes even the ears, with paintings by local artists on the wall, handcrafted souvenirs for sale, and the occasional live gig on the calendar. The food is uniformly delicious, homemade and unique, uses largely local ingredients, and always includes several vegetarian end even vegan options.
The Flavour – Ikuchijima, one of the islands on the Shimanami Kaido that is part of Onomichi municipality, is known for its Setoda lemons across Japan. Naturally, a citrus-y tang is an essential ingredient in many local delicacies, ranging from hassaku daifuku (a rice cake with citrus sweet bean paste), to lemon custard pudding and even lemon chili sauce, lemon cider and Yuzu ponzu sauce.
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