The future of fashion lies in fresh ideas, exceptional minds and undeniable talents. Whether leading the way with their own brands or taking over at established labels, these up-and-coming female voices from around the world are impacting the fashion scene with unconventional designs, innovative techniques and literal masterpieces – making them both a source of inspiration and an excuse to splurge a bit on worthwhile pieces. Take a look at the names fashion enthusiasts should be keeping an eye on. [Image courtesy of Loti]
Lou de Bètoly – This French-born, Berlin-based has revolutionised the fashion and art scene in one, not only with her eccentric designs, but also with the surrealism and extravagance that she represents. Lou de Bètoly, which is her artistic name as well as an anagram of her birth name, is known to the world of couture as the “aristocratic punk”: she doesn’t design with a specific person in mind, and she ignores the notions of ‘good’ and ‘bad’ taste to create truly unique pieces for fashion lovers who are daring, maximalist and free at heart. After working for Jean-Paul Gaultier for two years, she launched her namesake brand, designing sketch-free, directly with her materials, and improvising her designs most of the time. [Images by Daniel Roche]
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10 Up-And-Coming Women Designers To Watch.
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Sindiso Khumalo – Inspired to infuse the fashion industry with the values of social equality and female empowerment, Cape Town-based designer Sindiso Khumalo launched her brand in 2015. She’s mastered the skill of turning her Zulu and Ndebele heritage into highly wearable, modern pieces that exude femininity, while also championing eco-friendly fair-labour practices – which earned her the 2020 LVMH Prize. The Central Saint Martins alum works with NGOs and small workshops across South Africa and Burkina Faso to create unique handwoven textiles for her designs, revealing her characteristic eye for detail and bold use of colour and prints. Check out her collaboration with & Other Stories, as well as her designs at the home of African fashion, Merchants On Long. [Images courtesy of Sindiso Khumalo]
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10 Up-And-Coming Women Designers To Watch.
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Pamela Hernández – After a life crisis at the age of 30, Pamela Hernández decided to pursue her biggest passion: making shoes. With her brand Cruda (meaning “raw” in Spanish), the Costa Rican-born, Mexico-based designer blends structural design and strong lines with responsibility and intention. Relying on 100%-recycled resources, she also literally turns one man’s trash into another man’s treasure: her collections consist of handcrafted mules, platform boots and oversized bow-adorned slingback heels (plus a small collection of cute bags) made using discarded leather, wood from demolished buildings, and fabrics from old furniture – all while providing fair-wage jobs to Costa Rican workers involved in the artisanal process. [Images courtesy of Pamela Hernández]
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Torishéju Dumi – Zendaya wore one of her designs on the red carpet, and supermodel Naomi Campbell opened her debut show during last season’s Paris Fashion Week. As if it weren’t already obvious, British-Nigerian-Brazilian designer Torishéju Dumi has stormed onto the fashion scene. As a child raised in the Catholic church, she would admire the act of dressing in special outfits every Sunday as a form of art. Her religious influences, combined with her handcrafting skills and remarkable creativity, resulted in unique mens- and womenswear collections brimming with interesting silhouettes, traditional garments and the signature deconstructed tailoring of her newly launched label, TORISHÉJU. [Images courtesy of Torishéju]
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10 Up-And-Coming Women Designers To Watch.
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Melinda Zeman – Running counter to the typically conservative mentality of the fine jewellery industry, Melinda Zeman founded her brand, Boochier, to turn precious metals, gemstones and enamel into fun, colourful pieces for everyone. The Chinese-Ghanaian designer inherited her grandmother’s love for jade jewellery, and it was this, along with her multicultural heritage, that sparked her interest in the transformative power of accessorising as a way to celebrate one’s individuality. She takes inspiration from vintage toys and sweets, paying tribute to childhood nostalgia with a touch of luxury and modernity. The result is meticulously crafted, maximalist jewellery to be worn for generations. [Images courtesy of Melinda Zeman]
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10 Up-And-Coming Women Designers To Watch.
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Ellen Hodakova – Where we see silver dining trays, leather briefcases or ballpoint pens, Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova sees materials for her next big collection. A semi-finalist in this year’s LVMH Prize and the Karl Lagerfeld Prize, Hodakova is a true visionary, making art and fashion out of objects few have considered using before. Having launched her eponymous label in 2021, she’s now known for her bags made of repurposed belts, her dresses made of horse ribbons, and even beautiful earrings made of spoons. And while this repurposing may seem unconventional, her finished pieces offer refreshing utilitarian looks for everyday life. [Images courtesy of Hodakova]
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Selen Akyuz – As one of the standout names at Fashion Week Istanbul, Selen Akyuz has undeniable skill when it comes to haute couture tailoring. After studying fashion design at Istanbul Moda Academy, getting her degree in menswear at Istituto Marangoni in Milan, and working with Ermenegildo Zegna, she’s mastered her crafting skills to create high-quality garments for the sophisticated man. Her brand’s aesthetic combines her street style inspiration with Turkish craftsmanship, and she tops off her designs with natural materials and handmade patterns and finishings. The result: timeless collections under a “less is better” philosophy, for a truly versatile wardrobe. [Images by Okan Gülderen]
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10 Up-And-Coming Women Designers To Watch.
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Kate Barton – After graduating from the Savannah College of Art and Design in 2021, and making her debut in New York Fashion Week last year, Kate Barton has quickly become one to watch for her innovative take on evening wear. The NYC-based designer relies on shape-engineering draping methods, a minimal-waste fabric-first approach, and unconventional combinations for her label’s collections. But it’s the acrylic thermoforming and sustainable geometric cutting techniques that give her pieces their signature elegance and boldness. A prime example is her iconic liquid silk gowns worn by celebrities like Heidi Klum, Katy Perry and Kat Graham. [Images courtesy of Kate Barton]
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Lottie Bertello – Having started her self-taught design journey at the age of 12, the Peruvian designer launched her LA-based brand, Loti, under the banner of giving new life to fabrics that would otherwise end up in landfills. Her approach is straightforward: upcycling and repurposing. What began as a project to craft second-hand men’s button downs and printed shirts into beautiful trendy pieces, has now become a collection of elevated everyday wear in the form of dreamy, feminine pieces. As an emerging talent, Lottie blends Peruvian craftsmanship and smart repurposing with relatable, laid-back Cali style. [Images courtesy of Loti]
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Karoline Vitto – Dolce & Gabbana have the tradition of giving the last day of their Milan shows to an emerging talent worthy of the spot. Last season, they chose Karoline Vitto. Their reason? Not only does the Brazilian-born, London-based designer not only create beautiful works of art, but she does so by celebrating the realistic form of the female body, accentuating curves and features that other fashion houses often shy away from. Available in sizes ranging from UK8 to UK28, her designs are both sensible and sensual, delicately revealing the female shape with the elegant use of cuts and fabrics. In short, she designs for real women. [Images courtesy of Karoline Vitto]
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