Whale watching, shark cage diving, snorkelling with sea turtles – if you’re a fan of the ocean and all its amazing wildlife, you’ll already be familiar with the classic ways to get up close to sea creatures. But did you know that, in a handful of places throughout the world, you can also swim with sea lions? One such place is La Paz, the vibrant capital of Mexico’s Baja California Sur, set against a backdrop of dusty pink mountains and sky-high cacti. Here, in the Sea of Cortez – which French explorer Jacques Cousteau described as “the world’s aquarium” – you can get a front row seat to a dazzling display of underwater acrobatics as you snorkel with these incredible creatures. Ready to plan your next adventure? Let’s dive in.
By Lucy Walker
Wolves Of The Sea – Sea lions, or sea wolves (lobos marinos) as they’re sometimes called in Spanish, might have a reputation for lazing around and sunning themselves on rocky promontories, but underwater it’s a whole different story. These sleek creatures torpedo through the water, sometimes reaching speeds of up to 32 kilometres per hour. The thrill of being approached by such agile and inquisitive animals is a feeling like no other. Sea lions explore with their mouths and will often nibble on snorkels, flippers and other swimming equipment. Remember not to touch them if this happens – observing not disturbing is key.
Location, Location, Location – There are two spots to choose from when it comes to snorkelling with sea lions in La Paz: San Rafaelito and Los Islotes. The first is a small island located within the protected area of Balandra, not far from the city. The latter sits on the northern tip of Isla Espíritu Santo, a secluded island located within the azure waters of the Gulf of California. An important biosphere reserve, Isla Espíritu Santo is home to many animals, including several vulnerable species, and was declared a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 2005. [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
San Rafaelito vs. Los Islotes – Los Islotes undoubtedly has better visibility and a more colourful and expansive coral reef than San Rafaelito. And with over 600 sea lions on and around the island, it’s also home to the largest colony in the Sea of Cortez, making it most people’s first choice. San Rafaelito’s colony may be smaller, but the rocky outcrop’s proximity to La Paz means a much shorter boat journey, so it’s a better option for those with limited time. Remember, however, that sea lions are wild animals that don’t perform on demand. To increase your chances of a memorable experience, why not visit both locations if your itinerary permits? [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
Timing Is Key – The season to swim with sea lions runs from mid-October to the end of May each year. June, July and August are the breeding months for sea lions, and it is illegal to get in the water with them at this time; males are competing ferociously, and pregnant females and pups need a protected area away from disturbances. La Paz is blessed with beautiful weather all year round – in fact, it’s not uncommon for the city to go an entire year without a drop of rain – so any time between October and May is perfect for a visit. [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
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A Tour To Remember – You’ll be pleased to know that snorkelling with sea lions is a highly regulated activity, both for their protection and your safety. This means it’s not possible to go on your own, but instead you’ll need to book an organised excursion, such as one of the many offered by eco-conscious companies offering tours from La Paz to both San Rafaelito and Los Islotes. La Paz VIP Tours, for example, is run by a team of ocean specialists who organise small-group trips and emphasise respect for the local flora and fauna. [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
Pack Smart – While the beauty of taking a tour is that everything is arranged for you, there are a few details to remember. It’s always a good idea to bring along a hat, sunglasses and your own reef-safe sunscreen, as the Mexican sunshine can be very strong. Prepare for the tropical desert climate by dressing in layers, and pack a towel to dry off with after your swim. Don’t forget your waterproof camera – you’ll want snaps of this unforgettable adventure! A wetsuit, snorkel, mask and fins are usually included, and some tour companies will even provide sunscreen and photos of your adventure, too.
Eat To Your Heart’s Content – After all that time in the water, you’re bound to be a little peckish, but don’t worry, you’re in the right place. La Paz is one of the best food cities in Baja California Sur, offering everything from street-side eats to fancy oceanfront restaurants. Start your day with chilaquiles: fried tortilla quarters cooked in salsa and topped with melted cheese. Be sure to try Mexican classics like fajitas, enchiladas and quesadillas, and always order a side of fresh guacamole and totopos, too. Vegetarians and vegans will be pleased to discover the many plant-based restaurants offering regional and international fare. Finish the day with a glass of mezcal, an alcoholic drink akin to tequila and similarly made from agave.
Try Some Tacos – Speaking of eats, you simply cannot leave La Paz without sampling the local seafood. Baja California specialities are dominated by fish and lobster, which often arrive straight from the Sea of Cortez onto your plate. Try Mexican ceviche, a dish of diced raw fish cured in citrus and combined with onion, chilli pepper and cilantro. And don’t miss dining on at least one Baja-style fish taco; for this, head to El Estadio, a little eatery mostly frequented by locals. Here you can sample tacos de pescado: flour or corn tortillas filled with batter-fried fish, coleslaw, salad and taco sauce for only 25 pesos per person (that’s just over $1, at the time of writing). [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
Keep Swimming – If you’re eager for more marine wildlife encounters, add swimming with whale sharks to your La Paz bucket list. Gliding alongside the largest fish in the world is an adrenaline-filled experience you won’t want to miss. The highly regulated zone where you can find them is only a 20-minute boat journey from La Paz. Joining an organised tour will not only make this dream a reality, but will also be an opportunity to learn about the conservation of this endangered species. Whale sharks are attracted to the nutrient-rich waters around La Paz every year between October and May, which perfectly coincides with sea lion swimming season.
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Life’s A Beach – In this part of the world, relaxing on a beautiful beach is an absolute must – and Balandra Bay does not disappoint. Frequently voted Mexico’s most beautiful beach, as well as ranking among the best beaches in the world, the unspoiled, crystal-clear waters give way to large expanses of sandbanks at low tide, which you can use to walk out into the middle of the bay. Even at high tide, the water doesn’t reach more than chest height, making it possible to explore each of the headland’s seven secluded beaches in turn. Take care to shuffle your feet so as not to step on an unsuspecting stingray. [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
Explore Downtown – It’s not all about day trips. There’s still plenty to be explored without heading out of town. La Paz’s old-world charm is evident in the heart of the city, where the 19th-century La Paz Cathedral, a small neoclassical church, sits next to the picturesque Velasco Garden. Art lovers will be right at home in the multicoloured streets, where street art murals decorate every corner, and nautical sculptures line the seafront promenade known as the malecón. History buffs, meanwhile, should head to the Museo Regional de Antropología E Historia de Baja California Sur to learn more about the state’s past, from the palaeolithic era through to Spanish colonisation and the present day. [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
Memories For Life – You’ve probably heard the phrase ‘take nothing but memories, leave nothing but footprints’, and while this is true for nature-based excursions and wildlife encounters, it would be a shame to leave La Paz without any kind of Mexican memento. Head to Mercado Francisco I. Madero, where you can browse handmade goods like embroidered dresses, woven baskets and other locally made crafts. Or visit the Organic & Arts Market, which can be found just off the pier every Saturday morning. Here you’ll find local artisanal goods including jewellery, paintings and natural skincare products. Why not buy a traditional sombrero? Unlike in the movies, these classic woven hats have smaller brims and are great at keeping the sun out of your face – the perfect Mexican keepsake to remember your time in La Paz. [Photo: Thoroughly Travel]
About Lucy Walker – Lucy is one half of Thoroughly Travel, a website dedicated to budget travel and ethical wildlife encounters. She and her partner, Dan, travel full-time, sharing tips, recommendations and resources on their website and social media channels. Throughout 2022, they have travelled around Mexico and Central America, spending their time diving, whale watching and wildlife spotting.
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