Luxury timepiece brands producing unisex watches is nothing new, but it is a growing trend. Right now, we’re seeing a definite move away from the ultra-masculine, oversized monsters that dominated the last decade, and are witnessing the rise of pieces suitable for any wearer regardless of gender. But what exactly defines a unisex watch? Classic, timeless aesthetics are an important factor, and obviously size is a major consideration. Beyond that, materials play a vital role. Stainless steel is the perfect neutral metal, but any colour of gold can also grace every wrist with ease when used wisely. Here we present our pick of the top 15 unisex watches for all genders – and all budgets.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight – Having recently gone from strength to strength, nowadays we get to talk about Tudor on their own merits rather than merely as a Rolex auxiliary brand – and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is the heart of their revival. At 39mm, it’s arguably the ideal size for a unisex watch, while its unapologetically retro styling, in-house movement and attractive price tag make it one of the hottest releases of the last few years.
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Rolex Submariner – In all fairness, very few lists of ‘Top Watches’ fail to find a place for Rolex’s seminal dive legend. Once the poster child for all things manly and macho, the original Bond watch has mellowed over the years, widening its appeal to also beguile female audiences. The latest version, released finally gave us a somewhat overdue size increase, but even in its new 41mm guise, those iconic sweeping lines confirm its place among the most versatile timepieces ever made.
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Omega Speedmaster – A watch with an unbeatable backstory – and one of the few to rival Rolex’s Submariner for popularity – the ever-present ‘Speedy’ is an industry classic. At 42mm, it’s certainly on the larger side for a unisex model, but its minimalist styling and that trademark thin bezel keep it subdued and perfectly wearable for all. With its place in history secured as the first watch worn on the moon, the aptly dubbed ‘Moonwatch’ has barely changed its look over the last 50 years.
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Panerai Luminor Due – Known for their utterly enormous, military-grade dive models, recent times have seen Panerai scale things back, and the Luminor Due range fits the bill perfectly. The collection comes in a choice of three sizes: a 45mm at the top end, a 42mm mid-size model, and a 38mm aimed squarely at both men and women. However, all the features that made the original Luminor perhaps the most recognisable profile in the business are still present and accounted for. The square, cushion-shaped case, that iconic crown guard and the no-nonsense dial will satisfy even the most discerning Paneristi.
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Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211G – From the luxury arm of the Seiko brand, the Grand Seiko Snowflake offers a beautifully simple dial, with the face crafted to resemble the constantly changing snow drifts of Japan’s mountainous Shinshu region, home to the manufacturer’s studio. Studied closely, the miniscule sparkling peaks across its surface give an ever-changing look in varying light conditions. Inside is the revolutionary Spring Drive, a unique combination of traditional mechanics and modern electronics, which maintains an accuracy of one second a day.
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Cartier Tank – There’s a strong argument for calling the Cartier Tank the world’s first unisex watch. It was, in fact, one of the first wristwatches ever made, with the prototype emerging in 1917. Inspired by the shape of WWI tanks, its rectangular design is now engrained in the watch industry’s psyche, along with its elongated Roman numerals, chemin-de-fer chapter ring, blue steel hands and sapphire cabochon crown. As much a piece of exquisite jewellery as it is a timepiece, the Tank has captivated impossibly glamorous wearers of both sexes throughout its history, including Rudolph Valentino, Jackie Onassis, Truman Capote and Princess Diana.
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Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto – You could search ages to find a brand offering as much value for money as Hamilton. The one-time US company is now Swiss-owned and produces a wide array of watches, including the American Classic Intra-Matic Auto stemming from 2012 – a neo-vintage dress watch in both 38mm and 42mm sizes. About as simple as a timepiece can be, the razor-thin bezel and expansive styling means it wears bigger than its numbers would suggest, but the smaller of the two is still an ideal unisex watch. There’s a selection of dials on offer, too, with the champagne version an especially tempting option.
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IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 – IWC made some of the earliest dedicated pilot’s watches, and they continue to excel in the field today. Their portfolio is crammed with a vast array of aviation models, with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 representing one of the newest, and most affordable, additions. The 36mm piece – a size once considered large even for a man’s watch – is now described by IWC themselves as “dainty and elegant on the wrist” and “intended for watch lovers, both male and female”. It’s a perfectly balanced piece, its slate grey sunburst dial ringed with Arabic numerals and topped off with the brand’s signature Alpha hands.
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TAG Heuer Monaco – It might seem odd that the Monaco – a model made famous by the undisputed King of Cool, Steve McQueen – should make a list of top unisex watches, but the modest 39mm dimensions, coupled with its range of different colourways, mean it definitely qualifies. The square design is like a breath of fresh air even now, some 50 years after its debut, and it’s available with either automatic or quartz movements. Its various dials run the gamut between subtly understated and attention-grabbing, but for the truly authentic experience, check out the limited edition Gulf model, complete with orange and blue livery.
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Atelier Wen – Although founded by two French watch connoisseurs and funded by a 2015 Kickstarter campaign, newcomer Atelier Wen has its roots very much fixed in China. The manufacturer’s first offering is the Porcelain Odyssey, a two-model collection called the Ji and the Hao. Each are 39mm dress watches, and include restrained cultural references. The dials, for example, are genuine porcelain, with Chinese characters on the running seconds sub dial. Likewise, the deeply etched case back features the Kunpeng, a legendary bird representing the concept of Yin Yang.
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Norqain Freedom 60 GMT – The newest brand to make the list, Swiss startup Norqain only formed in 2018, but already boasts a formidable portfolio. Among their latest releases is the Freedom 60 GMT. Presented in either stainless steel or limited edition bronze, the 40mm model is bold in its aesthetics, but the visuals are tempered by a vintage flair that will appeal to both men and women, as will the quality and first-rate finishing.
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Bremont Solo-37 – As the official partner to the UK’s Ministry of Defence, British watchmakers Bremont have a strong military tradition – a pedigree that shines through in everything they make. Their three-piece Trip-Tick™ cases, for instance, are hand-finished in the same factory as Rolls-Royce aero engines. The Solo-37 is one of Bremont’s more subdued collections, an eight-strong family of time-and-date models, fitted with black or white dials. An elegantly solid pilot’s watch, each one features prominent numerals and wide, aviator-style hands for maximum legibility. Choose between a steel bracelet or leather strap, as well as two examples with a rose gold bezel and crown.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds – Positively oozing with Art Deco chic, the original JLC Reverso dates back to the 1930s, designed for British Army officers stationed in India who needed a way to protect their watch faces during polo matches. JLC’s solution was a reversible case made possible by a groundbreaking dial mechanism. Contemporary examples have retained most of the visual cues from that initial piece: the sharp dauphine hands, pure geometric lines and the three emblematic gadroons framing the face. The range is now an extensive one, but the steel Tribute Small Seconds, with its deep red dial and sumptuous leather strap, is particularly irresistible.
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Nomos Glashütte Club Campus 38 – Proof that a luxury watch doesn’t have to cost a fortune, the Club Campus range from young German brand Nomos Glashütte offers heaps of value in one quirky, lighthearted package. Perfectly sized for a unisex model, it features a playful design that introduces the watchmaker’s own take on the classic California dial – a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals, alongside plain batons for the hour markers. As the name hints, it’s aimed at graduates and can be had with either a display case back, or a blank one ready for engraving.
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Bulova Chronograph A ‘Surfboard’ – One of the oldest American watch brands, Bulova has been around since 1875. Recently, they’ve been scouring the archives and rereleasing modernised versions of earlier models, including this, the Chronograph A ‘Surfboard’. Originally only in production from 1970 to 1971, the new watch is an almost exact replica, right down to the retro cushion-shaped case and long oval connecting the chronograph counters – hence its nickname. The dial has a subtle creamy ‘aged’ finish, is surrounded by a black and red ‘Coke’ diver’s bezel, and sits on a comfortable silicon rubber strap. A beautiful vintage reissue.
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