The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000
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Ask any watch collector or timepiece enthusiast and they’ll tell you: There’s never been a better time in recent history to get an excellent watch at a reasonable price. This is especially true because the major names in watchmaking are finally seeing authentic competition from startup brands, and the context of a rapidly evolving traditional timepiece industry has increased brand efforts and product values, resulting in one of the widest array of desirable new watches – priced to move. In terms of style, the trends all point to retro design philosophy and aesthetics, but attractively produced with today’s better materials and manufacturing methods in mind. Priced $5,000 USD and under, here are 30 of today’s watches that score high in both versatility and kerb appeal.

By Ariel Adams

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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Tudor: Black Bay Fifty-Eight Blue – Channelling a vintage Tudor Submariner model with a similar blue dial colour, the recent Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Blue combines today’s trendiest watch dial colour with Tudor’s midsize Black Bay timepiece. At 39mm wide, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is arguably the most proportionally harmonious of the all the Black Bay models – Tudor’s current most popular sport watch collection. The “BB58” also contains a sophisticated in-house-made automatic movement with enough power reserve to last through the entire weekend of being off the wrist, ready and accurate for Monday’s commute or your next outdoor adventure.

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Seiko: Prospex “King Turtle” SRPE03 – Celebrated Japanese watchmaker Seiko has been on a continuous roll when it comes to satisfying both timepiece aficionados and value-seekers. The still fresh “King Turtle” member of the Prospex diver’s watch family is a fitting example of a daily-wear sports watch that packs style and durability with authentic functionality. Seiko added a decorative dial and ceramic bezel to the previous “Turtle” generation (name penned by fans which stuck) which yielded this royal moniker. It’s an excellent way to get into mechanical timekeeping – or just as a daily beater for those who want a go-anywhere watch.

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Casio: G-Shock Move GBDH1000 – With the G-Shock Move, Casio finally introduces a useful heart rate monitor to its famed sport and adventure watch. The G-Shock Move is more than just an upgraded classic G-Shock: it’s part of a brand new generation of products that thoroughly brings the collection into the modern era. Positioned as an exercise activity tracker (but suitable for more versatile wear), the G-Shock Move GBDH1000 includes a heart rate monitor, GPS tracking, Bluetooth connectivity and a host of other features and sensors in a package that even offers the user the ability to charge it via light or a detachable USB charging cable. It’s far more versatile and autonomous than most smartwatches, and makes a brand new case for wearing a watch from this collection with over 35 years of history.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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Undone: Basecamp Cali Dial – Rocketing to unheard-of popularity in just five years’ time, Hong Kong-based Undone is not your typical direct-to-consumer watch brand. Founded by both serious watch collectors and restorers of elite vintage timepieces, Undone was specifically intended to offer classic timepiece-wearing experiences mixed with modern fashionability in packages anyone can afford. The Basecamp is one of the market’s best entry-level mechanical watches, and the Cali is Undone’s interpretation of the “California Dial” – which for serious aficionados was originally popularised by historic Rolex and Panerai timepieces. It comes with a variety of dials and loads of customisation options.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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Tissot: Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium – Still a leader in accessible Swiss-made watches, Tissot tends to always have a solid offering for today’s young professional seeking their first serious mechanical timepiece. The Tissot Gentleman might have a less-than-specific title, but the theme here is all about universal wearability for everything from casual business to formal occasions. In steel at 40mm wide, the available automatic versions contain a specially made Swiss ETA movement with 80 hours of power reserve and the accuracy of a silicon balance spring. Few watches for the price will offer as much in such a classic package.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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TAG Heuer: Connected – TAG Heuer’s third-generation smartwatch – now known simply as the “TAG Heuer Connected” – is the Swiss watchmaker’s most ambitious Google Wear OS product yet. The case proportions have been streamlined for excellent wearability, and TAG Heuer has clearly invested in an attractive and proprietary watch face experience paired with the crisp, bright display. The crown is finally used to effectively operate many of the functions, and the wearing experience is akin to many traditional TAG Heuer timepieces. Feature-wise, the Connected now also includes a heart rate monitor along with the other sensors and hardware consumers now expect in top-shelf smartwatch products. A host of styles are available.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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Ball: Engineer Hydrocarbon Original – What many men really want in a timepiece is a solidly built tool. Not just one that accurately depicts the time, but also one that stands up to the elements. Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon Original begins by combining a tweaked version of the classic Engineer Hydrocarbon case with a customised movement that’s more durable and shock resistant than the basic Swiss-made automatic movement it is based on. The case is also suitable for diving and is highly anti-magnetic. The Hydrocarbon Original also sees Ball debut a new type of dial that uses flat self-illuminating tritium gas tubes in a manner that looks more like a traditional diver’s watch dial – to excellent effect.

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Sinn: 206 Arktis – German brand Sinn continues to produce some of the world’s most durable and effective mechanical tool watches – many of which happen to be quite becoming when worn on the wrist. This is the case with the Sinn 206 Arktis, a modern remake of the cult classic Sinn 203 Arktis. The new watch increases the case size diameter to 43mm wide and includes some internal upgrades, but essentially this is the same beautiful package as the historic model, including the “ice blue” dial. Meant for serious military or professional duty, it will work just as well for tooling around town or making a good impression in a suit.

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Norqain: Freedom 60 Chrono – A new brand from veterans of the Swiss watch industry, Norqain (the name is an acronym) launched with an enthusiast-oriented collection including the vintage chronograph-themed Freedom 60 Chrono. Norqain was spot-on in identifying that retro-sport watches are all the rage, including the fact that black dials with contrasting white subdials provide an eminently handsome look. A small plaque on the side of the case can be personalised for the wearer – a small but meaningful touch.

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Formex: Essence Automatic Chronometer – A special feature in most Formex watches is a vibration- and shock-resistant case whose trick is creating a suspension system for the middle unit of the main watch. This shields the automatic mechanical movement from environmental effects which would harm its accuracy. The Essence comes in a few forms, including a Chronometer-rated line which further adds to the precision timekeeping appeal of the brand. Sporty and timeless, the Essence also represents how much value and stamina independent brands have in the luxury watch space.

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Breitling: Superocean Heritage ‘57 – Modern watches that look like vintage pieces are all the rage today with timepiece collectors. So is the case with the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57, one of the newer flavours of the popular Superocean Heritage collection. Recalling the original Breitling Superocean model from 1957, an era which saw the birth of recreational diving, the watch’s distinctively retro dial is part of the charm. The all-polished 42mm-wide case comes with modern proportions and materials, while offering a truly yesterday-chic style when paired with the available matching mesh metal bracelet.

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Bell & Ross: BR 05 – As enthusiasts continue to flock to “integrated bracelet watches” Paris-based Bell & Ross throws their entry into the ring with an interesting model that in essence pays homage to the legacy of the brand itself. Arguably the first “non-instrument” product from the fashionable tool-style watch brand, the BR 05 is all about practical, daily luxury echoing the appeal of jewellery-style men’s bracelets. Starting with the brand’s famed aviation cockpit clock-inspired dial, the BR 05 is really an amalgamation of various aesthetics that mark the development of the brand since its birth in the 1990s. Wearers are given a masculine and arguably timeless wristwatch package that’s is as timeless as it is trendy.

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Omega: Seamaster Diver 300M Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 42 MM – With no shortage of diving-style watches produced by Swiss Omega, the Seamaster 300M remains a tried-and-true favourite for both versatility and utility. In its modern form, it boasts the brand’s capable Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement which, among other things, is able to almost entirely fend off magnetic waves. The distinctive dial is visibly from the popular Swiss brand, and when paired with a bespoke fitted rubber strap, the elegant curves of the case come alive.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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Wempe: Iron Walker Automatic Chronograph – German-based watch retailer Wempe is also a watch brand, with reasonably priced albeit luxury-positioned timepieces sold alongside popular greats from high-end staples such as Rolex and Patek Philippe. The recent launch of the Iron Walker collection impressed aficionados with handsome looks and a trendy integrated steel bracelet. In Automatic Chronograph form, the polished steel case is 42mm wide, offering near-universal wearability, along with a versatile style.

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Rado: Captain Cook Automatic 42mm – Channelling the historic 1962 Captain Cook diver’s watch collection, Swiss Rado has no shortage of contemporary models that currently bear the “Captain Cook” moniker. The best of them is the Captain Cook Automatic in its 42mm-wide form – notably on the matching “beads of rice” steel bracelet. Entirely vintage in character, the Captain Cook Automatic 42mm is very much contemporary in construction and wearability. It happens to look stunning in green with the matching ceramic bezel.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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Favre-Leuba: Raider Sea King – The Favre-Leuba name in watchmaking is among the oldest, with roots going back to 1737. In the 20^th century, the company produced a series of professional timekeeping instruments, including functional diver’s watches. The modern incarnation of Swiss Favre-Leuba incorporates what today is a quirky and cool aesthetic in an enjoyable-to-wear sports-lifestyle watch family. Among them is the Raider Sea King, which provides effortless wearability in a trendy 41mm-wide size with an available comfortable steel bracelet. It is also fully dive-ready, rated to 300 metres of water resistance. Choose the dial colour that’s right for you.

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Hamilton: Khaki Field Titanium Auto – Former military watchmaker, Hamilton has plenty of experience creating “field watches.” The larger Khaki collection is inspired by said “infantry watches”, and the Khaki Field Titanium Auto happens to be among the most appealing to date. It begins by using lightweight titanium versus steel for the case construction, and has enthusiasts in mind with other features: The 80-hour power reserve-based movement is visible through the caseback, and the dial eschews a date window in exchange for a more symmetrical aesthetic for this otherwise demure, handsome utility timepiece.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000.
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Longines: Hydroconquest Black Ceramic – A standout model in the larger sporty Hydroconquest collection from Longines is the black ceramic model, which replaces the steel case with a thoroughly scratch-resistant one produced from high-tech zirconium dioxide. Longines uses a special automatic movement with an extended power reserve of 64 hours, and pairs the stealthy diver’s-style watch with a bespoke rubber strap. A major selling point is the value price for what’s included, as compared to other all-ceramic Swiss-made watches.

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Maurice Lacroix: Aikon Automatic 39mm – Originally debuted as a battery-operated quartz watch, the modern Maurice Lacroix three-hand Aikon now comes in two automatic mechanical variants in either a larger 42mm width, or this more universal 39mm-wide size. Channelling the popularity of integrated bracelet watches in steel, as well as vintage Maurice Lacroix models from the 1990s, the Aikon Automatic 39mm is a dependable, stylish and affordable daily-wear Swiss watch for urban dwellers seeking to make a statement.

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Oris: Aquis Date – “Real watches for real people” is the slogan relied upon by Swiss brand Oris to explain the mentality behind their “luxury for the working person” products. Among their many diver’s-style watches, the one with the greatest combination of universal appeal and conservative visual pizazz is the Aquis Date – even in its 41.5mm-wide form. A capable diver’s watch, the Aquis Date is just as comfortable in social and celebratory contexts – but will never shy away from getting dirty (or wet).

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Andersmann: Bronze 1000M – Designed for watch enthusiasts by watch enthusiasts, companies like Andersmann are part of a new generation of timepiece makers founded and run by a category collector. Inspired by passion for brands such as Panerai, Andersmann produces chunky but ultimately elegant diver’s-style watches with loads of durability and heaps of visual class. The Bronze 1000M pairs a 44mm-wide bronze case with a legible dial and Swiss-made workhorse mechanical movement.

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Garmin: MARQ Driver – No stranger to smartwatches, GPS technology maker Garmin has only lightly dabbled in the world of luxury lifestyle watches – until recently. Their MARQ collection of high-end smartwatches combines the company’s bulletproof reputation for durable and functional digital GPS instruments with a finely machined titanium case coated in black DLC and paired with a matching hybrid metal and silicone comfort bracelet. Unique software packages are included in the various themed MARQ watches, including racetrack information for this motorsports-themed model.

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Bremont: Martin Baker MBII – Bremont’s long-standing relationship with fellow British company Martin Baker began as the result of the two companies trying to build a watch durable enough to survive the environmental forces of being shot out of a plane in an ejection seat. They succeeded, and since then Bremont “MB” watches have numbered among the company’s most popular – especially with their many military aviation customers. Newly updated, the fresh assortment of Bremont MBII watches now includes a new host of aesthetic options and can even be personally configured via the brand’s website to meet individual customer preferences.

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Marathon: GSAR Anthracite – Canada-based Marathon watches is the world’s last remaining official supplier of watches to military forces; at 80 years old, the company has only been selling to general consumers for roughly the last decade. The General Search & Rescue (“GSAR”) is their most popular mechanical watch for enthusiasts and is 41mm wide in a diver’s-style case. GSAR Anthracite sees the stately tool watch case coated in all black – making for a slick and stealthy look. The dial is available with and without “US Government” markings.

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Grand Seiko: SBGA283 – Grand Seiko recently finalised their official split from Seiko, a move designed to help propel the Japanese luxury brand further on the global market. Seiko has huge hopes for its popular high-end timepieces and plenty of tools to impress even the most seasoned of watch aficionados. Unique to Seiko are their quartz/mechanical hybrid Spring Drive movements, which feature the emotion of traditional automatic watches with the accuracy of modern devices. The SBGA283 is an excellent entrance into the brand, coming from the Grand Seiko Heritage collection and paired with a champagne-toned dial.

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Bulova: Joseph Bulova Breton – The current top of the Bulova watch family is the Swiss-made Joseph Bulova collection, named for the American-based brand’s original founder. Each of the current Joseph Bulova collection watches is art-deco-inspired but modern in how they wear. The Joseph Bulova Breton models come in a few dial styles and sport a difficult-to-pull-off rectangular case (a crowd-pleasing shape when done correctly). They are all also limited edition, which is impressive given the accessible pricing.

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Timex: Giorgio Galli S1 Automatic – American brand Timex’s lead design team is based in Milan, Italy – and the current primary designer is the talented Giorgio Galli. The first watch to bear his name is the beautiful Timex Giorgio Galli S1 Automatic – and its minimalist looks hide a series of interesting details not typically found in products at this comparatively low price. A complex case design and unique strap system are just the icing on the cake of this mechanical watch that has wowed timepiece aficionados like few Timex products have.

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Laco: Chronographs Monte Carlo – Few other watches on the market offer classic German Flieger (aviator) chronograph watch looks in a package so fairly priced – especially given that Laco itself produced historic German Flieger watches. The Chronographs Monte Carlo is effortlessly legible, given that its core design was meant to be visible in the cold and dark fuselages of propeller-powered bomber planes and fighters. Inside the 44mm-wide case is a Swiss-made automatic chronograph movement.

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Horage: Autark – Located in one of Switzerland’s traditional watchmaking hubs, Horage is a company with fresh ideas in the business of practicing the historic craft of watch and mechanical movement-making. They are among the rare companies that design and produce the movements which go into their watches, with the brand’s flagship calibre K1 automatic movement beating at the centre of the 39mm-wide titanium case (with matching bracelet Autark). The movement is equipped with a module that – in addition to telling the time – also features a big date and power reserve indicator.

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Louis Erard: La Sportive Limited Edition Titanium – The La Sportive collection watches from Swiss brand Louis Erard skillfully combine vintage sport watch aesthetics with modern materials and 44mm-wide construction in yet another retro-style revival success story. This limited edition model comes in a titanium case with a black ceramic bezel along with a domed sapphire crystal – features never actually available in historic sport watches. The blend of old looks and contemporary wearability are spot-on here and across the larger La Sportive product family.

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The Top 30 Watches To Collect Under $5,000

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